Paharganj is a bit like marmite - you'll either love it or hate it! Actually I probably loved it and hated it in equal measure. There is a constant crazy bustle which can be maddening at times, but it's also that craziness that somehow sums up the joy of India! Furthermore, location wise it's pretty good as it's walking distance to the train station and an easy rickshaw ride to anywhere else. The accommodation is probably mostly on the budget side though there are probably some exceptions. You'll find food to cater for Western tastes as well as the usual Indian fare. I liked the cafes/restaurants like Everest which have a roof terrace. Such a great place to sit and chill and look out over the madness (from a peaceful distance!). People claim it's not so safe and they get hassled a lot. I was a female travelling alone and never had any problems. I think if you dress appropriately, walk with confidence and are polite but firm with the persistent shopkeepers/sellers then you'll do just fine. If you want to be close to the action but not right in the heart of it then I'd recommend hotels on Arakashan Road (which runs parallel to Paharganj, but a few streets back). It's equally well places for the station etc. but allows you to escape a little - and you'll still find the essential local chai stall! yum!

It's crazy, pushy, busy, colorful, smelly, and most importantly, cheap! It isn't for everyone and you certainly have to have thick skin and a confident appearance to not be completely taken advantage of! But I really enjoyed Paharganj...it was so close to the New Delhi Train Station that it made it the perfect place for us, and with all of the bustling markets you'll be very entertained. There are some great restaurants and street vendors too (but be careful...my friend found out why they call it Delhi belly!). If henna interests you there are plenty of places to get it done, just walk up and down the streets in the evening until you find someone who's designs you like. I had black henna done from my knee to my foot and it lasted for close to a month! (much longer than the natural brown henna). It's a lot of fun!

Paharganj is a crazy busy part of New Delhi. If you are looking for a cheap place to stay and eat in New Delhi this is it. I chose to stay here because it as cheap and close to the New Delhi train station. It is a little rough on the outside but once you spend a little time there you'll find it's not that bad of an area. It's also a good place to buy gifts before you fly home. It is also a short walk to Connaught Place if you want to experience the high end shopping and dining of India.

Filled with people, chickens, rubbish, cows and honking auto-rickshaws - Pahar Ganj is still one of Delhi's cheapest places to stay and an experience in it's own right! There's shopping and cheap eats too and so much happening that it's difficult to take it all in. It's India in microcosm, with Kashmiri's and Tibetans vying for your rupees and shoeless beggar children tugging at your sleeves.

Not the safest part of Delhi, but a fascinating part of the old town. This is where you might end up in a suffocating, yet dirt cheap hotel room. Some crime, so watch out. Mostly, this area is bustling with people, animals, rickshaws, flies. Colour and stench and noise! The central railway station is also here.