You either love it or hate it, thats Varanasi in a nut shell! It's India at its most Indian, in your face dirty, smelly, but still full of color and life, I loved it. You could just spend hours watching the world go by. The river is the cities life source used for everthing and I mean everything, bathing, blessings, washing, waste disposal, you name it you may see it float by. We spent two days sailing on the river and camping on the banks by far my highlight of India. Varanasi would test the patience of Buddha himself, the touts are constantly at you from the moment you step out of your hotel and even when your having a morning boat ride on the river boats pull up beside you, flowers candles, you name it you can get it. What more can you ask for! So much life to see and to learn in this vibrant city.

The Ganges is at its holiest in Varanasi, sadly it also at its dirtiest. We're complimenting the river here by calling it water. Oddly this didn't discourage me from white water rafting in the Ganges up north in Rishikesh. Varnasi is something like the Jerusalem of Hinduism - a very holy city. Lined with Ghats painted in pastels, a row boat is a great way to experience Varanasi though do not touch the water!!! For your notes, the ashes of those cremated are spread into the water. More interestingly, the bodies of babies and holy men are considered pure and therefor are not required to go through cremation as a purification process. Their bodies are placed as is in the river.

Era Kashi, al tempo dei Veda; divenne poi Varanasi, dal fiume Varuna che scorre a Nord, poi deformata in Benares dagli Inglesi che non sapevano pronunciarne corretrtamente il nome. I Ghats, le gradinate al fiume; Un milione di pellegrini visita Varanasi ogni anno. Una delle sette citta sacre dell’Induismo e si crede che chiunque muoia nel territorio passi direttamente al regno dei cieli. Manikarnika Ghats tra I piu importanti per le cremazioni

The Ganges is an amazing people watching river. I took a Sunset and a Sunrise boat tour and the river changes from morning to night. In the evening there was a huge Puja ceremony at the main ghat. In the morning there is a lot of people doing morning prayer, washing cloths, yoga, dishes and tons of other things. If you like to people watch and get some amazing pictures, the Ganges in Varanasi is on of the best areas to be.

Travelling down this river by boat was one of the greatest experiences of my life! It is beautiful, serene, spiritual, confronting, ugly and nauseating. It is like nothing you have seen or felt before. Be prepared for what you may see, bearing in mind that this place acts as a cemetery. From my experience, people are moved by it or are freaked out by it. Come with compassion and you will never forget it.