I visited Uruk while I was a Marine serving in Iraq shortly after the initial invasion phase in 2003. My squad had been sent to escort an Iraqi documentary film crew to the site, and were treated to a guided tour by the host of the documentary, who was very familiar with the history of the site. While the site was, at the time, not very well excavated, the ziggurat is very apparent, and there are several large areas that have been excavated to some extent or another. The feeling of being in this ancient city, which as I understand was the first of the Sumerian city-states, was incredibly overwhelming.

I'm not sure if any excavation has been done since I was there, nor am I sure if the site is even open to tourists. The local tribesmen in the area seem to have take on the task of guarding the ruins, and while protective of it, they were extremely friendly in their dealings with us and with the film crew. They even invited a bunch of armed US Marines into their home for some good Chai tea! If you ever do get a chance to go to this site, I'd highly recommend it. It's an amazing experience.