This is one challenging trek...or pilgrimage. But since when were pilgrimages easy? I did the touristy thing of arriving for sunrise, and was rewarded with a magically clear morning as the sun rose and burnt off the clouds form the surrounding jungle. The trek is made easier by the frequent tea stops and small rest huts ... you can get a sugar or caffeine fix whenever you need. The route I took was about 9km up and 12km down...took the more scenic route down, through part of the forest. This is a must experience if you're there at the right season. I met probably 1000 or more people that morning and only a dozen foreign tourists, it was a great experience. Be sure to get a guide, they can help provide valuable information on the history of the area, the temple etiquette and ensure you reach the top in time too!