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Hiking in the Dolomites

Day 1 - First via Ferrata

by Pokin Y. (in Cortina d'Ampezzo on Sep 11, 09)

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Begins early enough thanks to jetlag. I convince myself to stay in bed to conserve energy for the hike. At the last possible moment, I get up, have a quick breakfast, get dressed, step outside, realize it’s cold, head back inside to grab more layers and step back outside again.

Of course the day is about to get colder.

We’re at the base of the valley on our way up a windy mountain road towards the Cinque Torri chairlift to then start hiking uphill some more before we start climbing.

One thing to note about coming to the Dolomites in the September – things can be a bit chilly! Heck, things can be a bit chilly any time you’re up in the mountains given that it’s pretty windy so be sure to bring layers!

We pile into a mini bus towards our first destination.

There are three group options today. A shorter, easier hike, a longer hike and a via ferrata. Almost unanimously we decide to go with the via ferrata. Alexia had sprained her ankle the day before while were walking to Cortina so unfortunately she had to skip out of the via ferrata.

They pass us our gear – harnesses and a helmet, and we’re off trekking towards the base of via ferrata Averrau, one of the easiest ferratas in the region and a great beginner one as it’s only about 300 metres tall.

Now I knew a little bit about the via ferrata, but I didn’t know what to expect. I supposed we’d be starting up high as we began our trek from the top of a chairlift. Some point after we’d been walking for about 10 minutes, our guide Marcello casually points to a giant limestone peak in front of me and nonchalantly mentions “we’re climbing to the top of that.”

I crane my neck up towards what I think is the top and I freak out a little.

Gulp! The group begins to move again so I gather my thoughts and chase on after. Some number of switchbacks later, we arrive to the start of the via ferrata.

Here we go!

As I was saying, I’d gone rock climbing before, but didn’t know what to expect with a ferrata. So for those who are as in the know as I am, it goes a little something like this:

You wear this harness attached to two ropes with a carabineer attached to the end of each rope. You attach your rope and carabiner onto the fixed cable that is anchored to the rock at fixed intervals for security. The reason you have two is so you can safely transfer from one section to another while always staying clipped in.

With that in place, your job is to scramble to the top, however you can, as quickly as you can!

Anyway, I start my way up and quickly get stuck. I’m feeling around with my big clunky hiking boots for a solid foothold when I hear a voice behind me.

“Stop moving your foot around and just stick it somewhere.” I hear Marcello say impatiently.

Doh. Ok I felt a little schooled but it did get me out of my inertia and I scramble on up after the others.

I get to the end of the ferrata and happily appoint myself ascent documentor by snapping shots of the gang ---

-- that is until I realize that we’re actually not done and that there’s more to go. Up and over to the right, I see tiny specks that I realize are little people.

There’s still quite a ways to go.

I scramble to follow the group.

Huffs and puffs later, I arrive at the top and am greeted by panoramic views of mountain ranges. In the distance is Marmaolada, the tallest peak in the region and the only one that boasts a permanent glacier.

Ok, so the views were worth the effort.

We stay briefly to enjoy the view, but before long, our stomachs announce their impatience with us and we head back, right back along the same path.

I’m told normally with ferratas you don’t go back down the same way which is nice. This is the exception.

Back down, down the ferrata we scamper, down the path towards the chairlift, down into the parking lot, ready for food.

And apparently our next adventure.

On our way up, Agustina had pointed to this tiny brown speck perched in what appeared to be a pretty precarious position waaay up high on this steep cliff, and said we’d be eating there.

I thought she was joking.

She wasn’t.

Our next adventure was to go up a cable car ascending 2752 metres up a steep incline. We’re headed towards Rifugio Lagazoui -- the tallest refugio in the region with one of the best views.

Our gang collectively freak out some more, but eventually most of us are coaxed into the gondola and up we go.

The trip was surprisingly quick, though a few of us still got by better eyes glued shut, crouched down in a corner. We arrive at the platform, leap to solid ground as fast as possible, dart around the platform up the stairs to be greeted by even more spectacular sights and views of the region.

Ok it was worth it.

I spy a german shepherd in the distance and race up to for a closer look.

Ok it was really worth it. : )

My stomach impatiently reminds me that it’s famished, and I wander in for my first Italian refugio lunch.

And I decide promptly that I like Italian mountain hut living. We were given a four course meal – antipasto, salad, Casiunziei, this beet and spinach ravioli. There would have been venison too but the group was too full, plus dessert. Sometime after the ravioli I was happily stuffed, but made room for dessert before we began our descent.

Normally, the plan was that we’d be scrambling through Lagazoui Gallery, these WW tunnels back down the mountain, but given how late it was, we decided instead to do the downhill walk from the outside, which was a beautiful steep stroll down numerous switchbacks. There were entrances to parts of the tunnel along the way, so we were still able to get a taste of what it was like. The nicest part was that we were coming down during the afternoon, and were greeted with a valley swathed with pretty golden light.

What a great way to kick things off.

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