Main road going from the top of the hill down to the motor way. A lot of small "joints" as they call small bars with mama cooking outside. During the Ramadan, you can go after 6pm and by some moy-moy (bean pasata with egg and smoked fish deep fried in palm oil within a banana leave) very cheap and you don't get hungry after that. Then go to another joint, who's owner is a christian mama (easy to recognise, there's a lot of "Jesus is my friend" stickers everywhere and ask for a iced Gulder (pronounce Goolda) or a Star (pronounce STAA). Enjoy and beware of mosquitos.