South Australia Transportation

Since I have no wish to spend too much time in Adelaide during the cycling convention, I made a last minute decision today to change coaches at Port Augusta and make a detour north to spend the day at Coober Pedy, which is where ninety-five percent of the world's opals are mined. The place is quite extraordinary - since the temperature can get as high as 110 degrees in the summer and below zero in the winter, the occupants have quite simply chosen to live under the ground where the climate doesn't affect them and it remains a constant 28 degrees. Today, apparently, it has been somewhere in the region of 100 degrees, and our coach captain, in an outburst of "telling it how it is" common to Australians, tells us that he believes anyone choosing to live in Coober Pedy to be a total nutter. Most of the occupants have dug out their own homes underground from scratch, cutting down into the hard Gypsum rock, and have created hidden mansions beyond the reach of the sun. They have television and electricity, and water comes in through a pipeline from an underground river twenty-seven kilometres away and is refined on site to allow hot and cold running water. The actual cost of digging such a home out of the rock is similar to that of buying a home overground although, of course, most of us would be quite annoyed if we paid for a new house and turned up to find a pile of bricks and a sheet of instructions telling us how to put it together ourselves. You really can have nothing but admiration for these people. We were taken on a tour of a local home, where the occupants were actually sitting in the living room watching television as we wandered through. From the outside, all we could see was the front door set into a mound of earth in the ground, but stepping inside is like crossing the threshold into another world. It's a little like living in a luxurious cave - the walls are hewn from the rock and lit by lamps set into carved out pillars. We entered the structure down a flight of steps, and to our right was a large living area which looked exactly like a normal living room except that the floor and walls were solid rock. Down the hall was a rock alcove containing a wine cupboard, and rough hewn stone steps led up in all directions to bedrooms of multicoloured Gypsum. Most surprisingly of all, we climbed a flight of steps at the back of the house and found ourselves standing on the edge of a full size underground swimming pool. This place was simply one of the most beautiful homes I've ever been in, and if it wasn't for the fact that it's miles from anywhere and that going outside is like stepping into a furnace, I couldn't imagine a more perfect place to live. Down the road was a complete underground church, with the altar and pews hewn out of rock. Coober Pedy has a school, a hospital with twenty beds but only one doctor, and a small street of shops. They now also have an open air cinema - and for those wishing to stay a while on the way North to Alice Springs, there is even a complete underground hotel where you can sleep, eat breakfast in the restaurant, browse the hotel shops, and drink in the bar without ever going above ground. Living here must be like living in an episode of "The Clangers". I took a tour of a local mine, since the opportunity was previously denied me in Mount Isa. Provided with hard hats and torches, our small band of travellers was led in single file down a narrow corridor which snaked it's way through the rock until I couldn't even imagine how far down we were. The passageway opened up into a large cavern where we were shown opal deposits and were able to stumble about in semi-darkness feeling claustrophobic before emerging into an opal shop where we were shown a demonstration of cutting and polishing and invited to part with large amounts of cash. Coober Pedy also has its surreal side, in case living underground isn't already surreal enough for you. There is a Golf course in the town but due to the obvious lack of grass the rules are slightly different. Each player has to carry around a square of Astroturf which they lay on the ground in order to have a grassy surface on which the place their ball for each stroke. They also have special balls which glow in the dark, so they can play at night when the temperature is bearable - so a game of Golf in Coober Pedy generally consists of going out at night with an illuminated ball and a square of grass and hitting the ball across a large area of jagged rocks in the hope that it won't be smashed to pieces after the first few strokes. Not surreal enough? Ok - try this one. At the top of the town is a tree - but no ordinary tree. The locals obviously missed the greenery of home so much that they wanted something to remind them what a tree looked like - so they've collected up all the scrap metal in town and welded one together. That's right; they've welded together a tree out of scrap metal. The sight of this would've probably had me rubbing my eyes in disbelief and thinking that the desert heat was getting to me, if it weren't for the fact that Australia is littered with these oddities - any road trip of the country, for example, will allow you to stop at a number of so-called "Big" things, a collection of nearly 150 roadside objects including "The Big Banana", "The Big Prawn" and "The Big Pineapple". This is Australia at its most surreal. So why would anyone go to such lengths to live in Coober Pedy, a town which sits in the middle of the burning desert and makes every attempt to roast you alive just for stepping outside your front door? The answer is simple - everyone here lives in the hope that they will one day hit a major opal field and strike it rich overnight. People flock in from all over the world to buy a plot, build a house and start digging, and a select few will go away millionaires. The reality, however, is that it costs so much to live and mine here that you would need to strike it lucky virtually every day just to stay alive - but it's like a form of gambling to the locals, and they don't seem to be able to imagine living any other way. If anyone did strike it rich, my guess would be that they'd just stay on and look for more.You can read my full travel journals at http://www.offexploring.com/globalwanderer and http://www.offexploring.com/globalwanderer2

Considering that Adelaide is the capital of South Australia, I had expected a bustling metropolis packed with businessmen in suits rushing back and forth between meetings, and I was almost planning on moving on as soon as I got here. It just goes to prove that you should never jump to conclusions. I like Adelaide. I like it a lot. If it can be possible for a big city to retain the charm of small town Australia, Adelaide seems to be having a pretty good try - the day to day business seems to be hidden away behind the scenes where it's out of sight and mind, while the streets remain relaxed and, well, Australian. Everywhere I went as I wandered, I saw fountains with people sitting around on deckchairs listening to music playing in nearby bandstands, colourful markets full of equally colourful traders, or street entertainers striding about on stilts. It is also incredibly easy to find your way around as the city is built on the grid system familiar in Australia and North America, making it very hard to get lost. Trams trundle up and down taking people from place to place, the pedestrian malls are cobbled and full of atmosphere, and the Torrens River runs right through the city with both banks covered in parkland and wide grassy verges where people sit eating picnics and soaking up the sun. In fact, one of the things which sets Adelaide apart from other cities is the sheer amount of green space. And of course, Adelaide is home to the Australian Oval where they routinely practice thrashing us at Cricket. In other cities around the world, it almost seems as though there's a competition going on to see who can build the biggest skyscraper or the largest office block - and if anything inconvenient such as a tree should get in the way, then they just pull it up and pretend it never existed. In Adelaide, it's obvious from the moment you arrive that the buildings are secondary features and are built around a beautiful city of parks, gardens and rivers - how rare it is to see the environment being considered as part of the future. My guide book describes Adelaide as a city of wonders and possibilities, a city of art and festivals, and it's now obvious to me why people have been heading here from all over the country in the last few days for the national cycling event - the city is criss-crossed with cycling and walking trails running through the parklands and along the river, and it's a pleasure to get around by leg power rather than petrol. The reason for Adelaide's apparent wish to stick two fingers up at the accepted way of designing a city harks back to it's inception and design by William Light in 1836 as a River Town of public spaces, wide boulevards and surrounded by parkland - a place inspired by the then unusual concept of civil liberties, where people could relax and worship freely within the "City of Churches". Unbelievably, this wasn't initially a very popular idea - but thankfully Light went ahead anyway, people came around and not much has changed in Adelaide over the years. Neither is there any sign that anybody feels a need to start expanding all over the surrounding green belt as many cities have done in recent years.

You can read my full travel journals at http://www.offexploring.com/globalwanderer and http://www.offexploring.com/globalwanderer2

wanna be rich? go and get opal!

HOT HOT HOT in this city! Gateway to the amazing Australian outback!!!

safety first to the the visitors