Nagorno-Karabakh Travel Guide

Cool underground cave-like dwellings visible from the highway as you pass through the Lachin corridor are pretty impressive.  At border control with Nagorno-Karabakh if you drive through (the customs station is at the bottom of a hill around a bend across a small river) quickly in an Armenian plated car, noone bothers to ask for your visa papers or anything - I had a visa waiting for me there, but my driver sped through and just ignored them with no consequence.  The police chief in Stepanakert said I did not need it once I was there, so...

I have no idea after seeing this place how the Karabakh army defeated the Azeris - I mean this is amazing, especially when you see it! 

Don't ask questions about the war at the museum of the Nagorno-Karabakh War that do not assume Azeris are guilty!  I did not do so, but I witnessed someone asking questions about it and they were pounded into the ground with some of the most amazing verbal barrages I ever witnessed from a small American-born Armenian girl - it was kinda sexy, I have to admit ;)