The peaceful capital city of Bhutan where progress is measured not by GDP but by a Happiness Index ... though NGO and UN workers of the more traditional sort are quite visible ... especially if you go to the expat bars ... not many independent Western tourists here as tourism is pricey by policy (with specified hotels, per day minimum, organised tours and compulsory guides) though Indians have an edge in that the same rules don't apply to them and they can enter independently and travel freely, without a visa (India is Bhutan's main donor and technical provider) ... but get here if you can ... the scenery is stunning and you will be moved by the simplicity of people, when an old woman with blotched red teeth (from too much chewing of the stuff almost every Bhutanese chews) smiles at you ... do visit the Tashi Chho dzong that doubles up as the royal government quarter and do try the fiery Emma Datshi (a dish of cheese and chillies!) ... taxis are relatively inexpensive and worth it ... and it is certainly a different sort of country altogether ...
