After cycling down the death road from La Paz, staying in the Esmarelda Hostel is the best way to relax and give your thanks to 'whom it may concern' for surviving the famous mountain road. The hostel is placed at the top of a hill with fantastic views across the valley to the road you have just hurtled down on your bike. The swimming pool, sauna, tv room, pool table and buffet restaurant make spending a few days in coroico an inevitability. If you still have the travelling spirit after so much luxury, jump on the 20 hour bus to Rurrenabaque and the Bolivian Pampas. The old buses have a tough time along the road (our wheel fell off three times), and sleeping is almost impossible, but once there, you will realise why you came. Take the plane back to La Paz, if you can afford it. The prospect of another dance with death back UP the 'Death Road' just isnt worth thinking about!








