Some people think Alex doesn't live up to its past. No more pharos, tomb of Alexander, or even the multi-cultured feel the place had up until the 1950s. But, there is enough of the old Alex for the place to be relaxing and charming (especially compared to Cairo). The corniche area from the Fort to the new library is lovely to walk down. The Cecil hotel in the main square still has colonial charm and there are some lovely restaurants and cafes in this area. The Roman catacombs are also worth a visit.