Egypt Dos and Don'ts

Aswan, Egypt's sunniest southern city and ancient frontier town located about 81 miles south of Luxor, has a distinctively African atmosphere. Its ancient Egyptian name was Syene. Small enough to walk around and graced with the most beautiful setting on the Nile, the pace of life is slow and relaxing. Days can be spent strolling up and down the broad Corniche watching the sailboats etch the sky with their tall masts or sitting in floating restaurants listening to Nubian music and eating freshly caught fish. In Aswan the Nile is at its most beautiful, flowing through amber desert and granite rocks, round emerald islands covered in palm groves and tropical plants. Explore the souk, full of the scent and color of spices, perfumes, scarves and baskets. View the spectacular sunsets while having tea on the terrace of the Old Cataract Hotel (Named due to the location of the Nile's first cataract located here). Aswan has been a favorite winter resort since the beginning of the nineteenth century, and it's still a perfect place to get away from it all. Every night Nubian dancers and musicians perform in the Cultural Center, just off the Corniche. Folklore troupes recreate scenes from village life and perform the famous Nubian mock stick-fight dances.
Dancers at the Cultural Center Aswan is a strategic location which currently houses a garrison of the Egyptian army, but which has also seen ancient Egyptian garrisons, as well as that of General Kitchener, Turkish troops of the Ottoman empire and the Romans. The city proper lies on the east bank of the Nile. Relax here, visit a few mosques, but then prepare for an adventure. The bazaar runs along the Corniche, which continues past the Ferial Gardens and the Nubian Museum, and continues on to the Cemetery, with its forest of cupolas surmounted tombs from the Fatimid period. Just east of the cemetery in the famous area quarries is the gigantic Unfinished Obelisk . Just to the south of this, two Graeco-Roman sarcophagi and an unfinished colossus remain half buried in the sand. The most obvious is Elephantine Island , which is timeless with artifacts dating from pre-Dynastic times onward. It is the largest island in the area. Just beyond Elephantine is Kitchener's Island (Geziret el-Nabatat). It was named for the British general Haratio Kitchener (185--1916) and was sent to Egypt in 1883 to reorganize the Egyptian army, which he then led against the Sudanese Mahdi. But the island is known for its garden and the exotic plants the Kitchener planted there, and which continue to flourish today. On the opposite shore (west bank), the cliffs are surmounted by the tomb of a marabut, Qubbet el-Hawwa, who was a local saint. Below are tombs of the local (pharaonic) nobles and dignitaries. Upriver a bit is the tomb of Mohammed Shah Aga Khan who died in 1957. Known as the Tomb of the Aga Khan , it is beautiful in its simplicity. A road from there leads back to the Coptic Monastery of St Simeon , which was built in the sixth century in honor of Amba Hadra, a local saint. Just up river a bit, there is also the old Aswan dam, built by the British, which was enlarged, expanded, but unable to control the Nile for irrigation.

Culturally, Egypt is a Muslin country. Even in Cairo, a woman ought to have a male companion walking by her side when on the street. She should have shoulders and upper arms covered, closed neck top, skirt below the knees. Pants are ok, but ought to be loose. Modesty is the key word. WEAR A WEDDING BAND, even if you are not married. Avoid being harassed and being an "ugly American" by dressing properly, speaking deferentially, and making sure to engage in small talk before going into the business at hand. Please don't complain when you are not allowed into places or do activities because of your female gender. Do not insist on your "rights" or be aggressive. Ask for assistance. The men are protective of women and eager to help. It is a different culture, and their customs ought to be respected.
That doesn't mean you can't negotiate for a good price, but always very politely.
Do not go out at night alone.
Book your tour before arriving in Egypt.

Coraya Beach resort is fantastic: very nice staff and good food, also including local cuisine

Don't stick to the tourist areas, it's better if you wonder back off the main drag and into the local haunts. You'll get a few weird looks and the kids will probably follow you for a while but well worth the effort to see how everyone lives and get some real Egyptian food!

It's been a while since I was there but locals were fab. We met some really honest people who just wanted to show us their city. Enjoy a turkish coffee and a flavored smoke near the markets. Go to the citadel and be amazed at how you can feel quite alone in this crowded city. Rent a taxi for the day and visit Giza and other close Pyramids and historic areas. You can get good deals on this from some cheap hotels. For a special treat if you are backpaking pay to use the pool at the Mena House Hotel, you can see views of Gisa, this is where Churchill and Roosevelt discussed WWII so is an interesting place to spend a day. Enjoy the food and the peoplel, I loved Cairo!