Addis Ababa Travel Guide

I highly recommend a walk up to the ruined rock-hewn church of Wusha Mikael (also known as Tekle Haymanot), To get there take a taxi (or walk) out past Arad Kilo to the Kenyan Embassy which is a couple of kilometres further on. Frequent minubuses also ply this route. Turn left immediately after the embassy and head up through the village into the hills.  It takes about an hour and a half each way to get to Wusha Mikael. The people are helpful and friendly all the way and you won't get lost. Eventually you will pass a small, regular church and a cemetry. Just keep going on and up until the land levels out and then ask the locals to point you further.

The countryside is rather pretty with plenty of rocks and eucalyptus forests. There are also plenty of flat, green spaces which are ideal for camping. I particularly recommend the area nearest the church. The region is quite isolated from the noise and bustle of the city and is perfectly safe. Just ask the warden to direct you to a suitable spot and be nice to the local kids so they'll be nice to you.

The church itself dates from the 12th Century and is the southern-most church of its type in Ethiopia. It was hit by a bomb and badly damaged during during the Second World War but the ruins that are left are still impressive, even romantic, and definately worth the effort. The warden/guide (covered by the admission fee, about $5) will tell you the whole story and afterward show you a wonderful view point form which you can see the whole of Addis and surrounding mountains arrayed before you

Addis is sprawling, busy and choking with diesel exhaust. Most tourists flock to the 51 acre compound of two hotel chains, but there are slightly less expensive options where you can actually mingle with the local population and other travelers from the African continent. There are a few things worth seeing, the University of AA on the grounds of the old palace and the national museum (for a replica of 'Lucy' and objects from Menelik II & Haile Selassie eras). I'd have much more more on my intinerary that Addis: the countryside is stunning. Take it easy on the injera (lots of yeast!) and check the meat on your lamb skewers, unless you like it raw.

For those who don't mind taking small risks: ask someone trustworthy (I recommend taxi drivers) about changing money on the black market. You can get in serious trouble if you get caught, but that usually doesn't happen to tourists. To be sure, get a bank or money exchange receipt so you can prove you changed your money in a bank. I kept showing the same paper for a month and it all went well, and the rates are hugely different (1€ in a bank  -11birr, 1€ on the black market 17birr)