India Dos and Don'ts

Never take a bus to Siliguri from any part of east India. The roads around are pathetic. Best and cheap option is to take a train to New Jalpaiguri station, only a few kms from the Siliguri town. Its a small town and used as a connecting point to Darjeeling, its famous sister. Siliguri is hot in the summers but the cold hills of darjeeling are not far away. The jeep ride is cheap but could be dizzy and nauseating for some. Finding a hotel in Siliguri town is very easy. Ask any rickshaw puller to take you to a good hotel. Rates are reasonable and food is okay. Once in Siliguri, don't miss the China Market and the Hong kong market. These twin markets are full of some wonderful stuff - pottery, watches, electronics, gadgets, carpets, shawls, home wear, swiss knives, and thousand types of tid - bits which can just do up the interiors of our home in a wonderful manner. Siliguri is also the connecting point to Gangtok (Sikkim). One doesn't need to spend more than 1 full day at Siliguri - at the market. Shopping is cheap. Don't miss out on the opportunity to visit both Darjeeling and Gangtok. Be wary of the touts at the bus stand though who could be misleading. Book everything from the hotel tourist support. After 10 pm, stick to the hotel. It's a day place.

+ Before going to India, its essential to hop down to your local health clinic and ask about local health guidelines on what vaccines and medications are recommended. At the basic level, its neccessary to update your current vaccines such as diphtheria, polio and tetatnus if needed. Then, it may be advisable in your country (it is in mine) to take a Hepatitis A vaccine to prevent this disease which is a water-borne virus. Its important to dicuss with your local travel health centre which anti-malarial to take. This will always carry an amount of risk, because resistance is developing towards malaria, and its difficult to know which strain of malaria will be present in the district where you'll be going beforehand. Anti-malarials need to be started *before* you go, sometimes up to four weeks before you go, so although it can be boring, its best to do some homework and check things out. Malaria can also be prevented by using mosquito repellant and mosquito nets, both are very useful. Another way to prevent a host of diseases that are carried in water is by using water purification tablets to purify the water that you drink. If you take a jerrycan with you, you can be be more safe. The water may taste a bit bad, but its for a good cause! Food is a common source of infection in the East, but you have to make a decision to either take a risk and taste the local food or somehow make your own food arrangements. Consulting your travel health centre at home cannot be over-stressed! 0:)

Mumbai is a nice city to explore on your own and there's no need for a guide as such. If you want to meet backpackers then the Colaba area is full of them and there are many places like the Leopold's Cafe and Mondegar Cafe where you will find a lot of the travellers enjoying some fantastic breakfast early in the morning or some beers at lunch or dinner. You might just be lucky to be asked if you wish to act as an extra in a Bollywood movie too!!! If you are on your own, just visit the Gateway of India and you will also get a nice view from the top if you go to any of the higher floors of the Taj Mahal Hotel. If you want to visit the Elephanta island for the famous caves then take a boat from the Gateway and it will take you about an hour to get there. The tickets can be bought in front of the Gateway from one of the booths selling them. There is a free guide inside the caves complex from morning to afternoon (just inquire with the security guard for his/her whereabouts). After you get back from the islands you can carry on walking towards the Regal Theatre and see the Museum as well as the other places for art like the National Gallery of Modern Art and the Jehangir Art Gallery for some interesting art exhibitions. Then carry on towards the other side of the University of Mumbai buildings and see the Rajabai Clock Tower , Library and Convocation Hall. Also see the High Court of Mumbai buildings. Then if you look across there will be a game of cricket going on in one of the famous playing grounds (maidans) called the Oval Maidan. Across the street is the Eros theatre and opposite that is the Churchgate railway station and in front of that is the Western Railway Headquarters as well as the Tourism office. You can then walk down to the Marine Drive promenade and take a long walk towards Chowpatty beach for a snack of Bhelpuri, Pav Bhaji and also some Indian ice cream called Kulfi and another sweet dish called Rabdi. There are some other nice places to see in between like the Flora Fountain and Hutatma Chowk (Martyr's Square) and the St. Thomas' Cathedral, which is very beautiful with a lot of nice sculptures inside it. Nearby is the Bombay Stock Exchange building and also the Jewish David Elaiyahoo Synagogue and the David Sassoon Library as well as the Elphinstone College buildings opposite it. The Town Hall building with the Horniman Circle and gardens is also worth seeing behind the cathedral. Visit the only UNESCO World Heritage Site in Mumbai city - the CST station building besides the other site in Mumbai which is at the Elephanta Caves on the island by the same name. There is the General Post Office building which is also worth seeing and a small part of the original Fort Wall next to the St. George's Hospital. You can visit Mani Bhavan (the house in which Mahatma Gandhi lived in Mumbai) which is now a museum devoted to his work and life as the father of the nation. Nearby is the F. D. Alpaiwalla Museum which has a lot of Iranian artifacts housed in the Khareghat Colony Hall and if you climb the steps leading up to the Parsi Towers of Silence and Hanging Gardens from the outside, then you will be able to get a good view of the Queen's Necklace from above. On the way down, you can visit a very elaborately carved Jain temple and then come down towards the Governor of Maharashtra's bungalow before reaching Chowpatty beach. You may carry on towards the Mahalakshmi temple and the Haji Ali shrine in the middle of the sea followed by a trip to see the Dhobi Ghat which is from the bridge over Mahalakshmi station. Upnorth in the suburbs of Borivali there is the 2nd Century old Kanheri Caves which are about 100 in number and built on a hill inside the Sanjay Gandhi (Borivali) National Park which is the only National Park in the middle of a metropolitan city.

If you are interested in shopping, then depending on what you want to shop for there are many specific markets like Zaveri Bazaar for gold and silver jewellery, Mangaldas Market for clothes, Chor Bazaar for antiques (and not so old stuff too!!!), Bandra Linking Road for lots of designer shops. Lots of other shopping arcades and malls have recently opened up in many areas so you can just walk into one for a quick look and buy whatever catches your fancy. There is a small shop called Avante just opposite the Regal Cinema at Colaba where you will get the best bargains in handicrafts, souvenirs, etc at very reasonable and cheap prices. Also nearby on the Phirozshah Mehta Road, there is a shop called Bombay Store which has a lot of handicrafts and good Indian teas as well for sale in attractive packaging which is another excellent gift idea.

Palolem (yes correct spelling)! used to be an idyllic, deserted place. Now days though, even though still beautiful, tourism has ruined it somewhat. The beach is alot busier, and girls have ignored culture and have taken to sunbathing topless-this is frowned upon by locals. My advise would be to keep your top on, to gain respect. Also do NOT wander around in bikini's along the street, it not only looks ridiculous but its lack of respect for yourself and for the locals. Palolem is a place i have still gone back to time and again even with its tourism and ignorant package tourists. It draws you in somehow, especially with its relaxed lifestyle. Also without the wonderful dogs, it wouldnt be the same. Most dogs have had their injections and rabies in Goa is not usual. Dogs do appreciate some food and water (seek out the skinny ones). Keep your left overs from your meals.

Cochin is the gateway to modern Kerala (India) and the hub of economic activity in the state of Kerala which is one of the unique and interesting places in the world The Malabar coast, long renowned in the ancient in the ancient world for its spices and the link to the far east as far as China had many ancient ports, not all of which have been identified to date. However, Kochi was not one of them. Presence of sand bars which obstructed ship movement and made it unsafe precluded its development as a major port for most of history. The most important port along the Malabar coast was Muziris, present day Kodungallur situated aprox 80 km north of Cochin. A major flood in the 13th century silted Muziris and opened the port of Cochin heralding its new era. At the time of the epic voyage of Vasco de Gama, the prime focus of international trade was Kozhikode, but a dsipute with the Zamorin, the ruler of Kozhikode forced Gama to look elsewhere (Cochin) for trade links. It helped that the Kings of the principality of Cochin (Perumbadappu swaroopam) welcomed the Portuguese literally putting Cochin on the world trade map. It has not looked back since. Kochi, as Cochin is known today, changed hands several times; Portuguese, then Dutch and finally British all leaving their marks on the life and culture of the place. Cochin soon attracted traders from around the world trading communities settled elsewhere in Kerala soon shifted base here. Most of the surface area of the region around Cochin is filled with waterways and backwaters. Tourist attractions Backwater cruises in "kettuvalloms" - house boats Food: a unique blend of old European (prior to the evolution of continental cuisine) and local tastes is unrivalled in taste. Dozens of varieties of fish preparations, appam (a frilly pancake made from fermented rice and coconut milk) being the best example. Culture: Kerala has the greatest concentration of classical arts in whole of Indian subcontinent namely, Kathakali, Mohiniyattam, Koodiyattam. Music: While Kerala has made itls own contribution to Carnatic Music (the south Indian classical music), the real unique aspect of Kerala music is the variety and depth of percussion instruments and rhythms. Afficiandos of percussion music must not miss the percussion orchestras at "Pooram"s which are huge temple festivals. These can also be the opportunity to glimpse the Keral elephants. Elephants: Elephants are revered by the people of Kerala and form essential elements in cultural life and are integral to temple festivities. Ayurveda: Kerala is famous for its exponents of traditional healing system known as ayurveda. While it is excellent for rejuvenating the tired mind and body, travellers will be ill advised if they attempt to cure major illnesses (better take modern medical help) For the traveller who wants to venture off the beaten track, it offers a unique experience which cannot be described. Flip side: Kerala is expensive. Hotel rooms are always full in season due to heavy demand and small supply. Book your flights and hotel rooms at least a year in advance if you dont want to regret! Part of the reason for high prices is a deliberate attempt to discourage the non serious traveller and the back packer. However, a back packer who is willing to do some research and improvise (like the local Indian) can have a lot of value for money Places to visit Fort Cochin and Mattachery [ Jewish synagogue, St Francis church- the first European church in Asia, Dutch palace, Bishop's house - it houses a unique maritime musueum of the Portuguese period, the building itself was built by the Dutch] Best wishes