- activities: get to bed early. stick to the main roads.that will keep you out of trouble.there is a zero night life unless you like hanging out with the army or the other side.
- accommodation: stay only at recommended houseboats- it does get nasty sometimes.never part with your passport. discuss the price for food, laundry and accomodation beforehand. pay only on departure.otherwise, it is a really beautiful place to be in.
- food: the kebab seller on the road towards shalimar garden by the dal lake is one of the best i have eaten. having said that: try an get an invite to a typical kashmiri wedding- now that is mind blowing food.
- shopping: the locals are tourist friendly and you will be amazed by the fact that they speak a lot of languages-like almost all touristy cities in india. be open to the fact that you will be conned regardless.
- for transportation: hire bicycles. auto-rickshaws (please bargain), taxis (please fix a rate), or catch a lift with the army guys.
- women travelers: try wearing full sleeved shirts, trousers and if you can keep your head covered-it'll be great. there used to be a kind of local 'fatwa' against women wearing jeans-but i am told-hmmm its ok for tourists.



















