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I visited Northern Iraq for ten days in July 2008 (Insanely hot that time of year I might add!) and I found it to be the most pleasant city in the Kurdish area. A must see is Amna Suraka (Red Prison) A bit out the way and hard to find, however worth it as it's a real eye opener into the tragedy of war... Also must mention my trip to Halabja, which was sobering to say the least (and also highly memorable considering I was interrogated for 2 hours for being there!)
People in As Sulaymaniyah don't speak Arabic nor English, so you have to know some Kurdish to understand what's going on!!
Be careful after 9 pm, many drivers get drunk at night!!
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