Coastal Kenya Travel Guide

For the fit and adventurous-minded I highly recommend a walk down the full length of Lamu beach. Once you get away from the tourist-haunted strip of sand next to the small town of Shella you will have almost the whole 12km to yourself. You will find peace and seclusion, lost camels and thousands upon thousands of small pink crabs basking on the shore line. Be quick if you want to catch one, and watch your thumb! Make certain that you take enough water with you, however, and a blanket or umbrella might proove useful to ward off the afternoon sun. At the far end of the beach (and island!) you will come to the small village of Kipungani and an up-market holiday resort run by a somewhat less than welcoming White Kenyan. His staff and neighbours make up for it though and can provide you with fresh water from the tap or a well - very safe and very necessary for the long slog back, which ever route you choose to take.

Unfortunately, dense mangrove swamps make it impossible to circle the entire island on foot (and if you did the distance would be too great to cover in a single day). Thus there are two options for the return journey. One is to retrace your steps along the beach. This is the shortest route and the one most employed by locals. The other is to follow an inland rout with will ventually bring you back to Lamu town. The only problem with this is that it is several kilometres longer and with all the paths and side tracks in the interior you run the real risk of getting lost.

Lamu beach, then, is much more than a sunbathers' paradise. It is also a place of trial and adventure that will bring you closer to the 'real' Africa.

Up until a couple of years ago the tiny village of Lunga Lunga was also the Kenyan border post for trips south to Tanzania. However with the opening of the new checkpoint the 7km of no-man's land that separated Kenya from its neighbour have been eliminated.

Unless you are adventurous, enjoy roughing it or find yourself stranded there is really no reason to stop in Lunga Lunga now and even less reason to spend the night. However if you do, there is a cheap and extremely basic hotel at the south edge of town that offers dark, ill-ventilated doubles for around 3$ - just beware of the giant cockroaches that inhabit the shared bathrooms. The management are welcoming and the neighbouring restaurant serves up a good plate of ugali and beans. The hotel bar is surprisingly pleasant with a nice gazebo which is ideal for staring at the stars, meeting locals and making plans for your onward journey.

Lamu is the land that time forgot, and definitely a place to be "off the grid." However, those seeking the calm coastal life be warned: you cannot arrive without being approached by a throng of "guides" offering their services, which can be annoying to those wanting to be left alone. Frankly you just have to find one that you feel comfortable with and accept their offer because you can't do anything in Lamu without a guide. They will become your best friends, and are indispensible in figuring out how things work in Lamu. They will organise day trips, dhow boat rides, tours of historic ruins, snorkelling/diving, and partying in local hotels (even if they are not permitted to enter the premises)... they will even leave you alone when instructed to do so. Bring a sarong, and a hat, and try to rent a house with a rooftop terrace / bedroom.