Mali People & Culture

Bambara Maounde is on the route between Douenza and Tombouktou. The last time I was here in 1994, the north of Mali had only been officially open (rebel problems) for about two weeks. I had put together a caravan to take my second love to Tombouktou. The chief of the village gave us a hearty welcome, insisted that we park our camels in his courtyard while we attempted to shop for whatever was available in the godforsaken place. When we returned, the chief, whom I then realized was tucked away in a den with at least another dozen robed rebel leaders, rifles/AK's/Swords against the wall, grew angry. Suddenly, our beasts had soiled his courtyard and we were to pay. He wanted 200 thousand CFA, which I didn't have. I had 100 thousand, which were reserved for the man leading our caravan; I gave the caravan leader the money in front of the chief, and said "If you want to steal, take it from one of your own". He was furious and we were chased from the village without even being allowed to refill our water. We drank from muddy wells until we made it to tombouctou 3 days later. Stay out of Bambara Maounde - there is nothing bambara about those people.

Bandiagara is one of two main hubss for people wanting to visit dogon country. Lots of guides but the best ones come from Pere Vespirene's monastary. Mac's refuge in sevare is a great place to start since he grew up in Dogon country and can help you to avoid bad guide experiences.

You absolutely have to taste the special meal of timbuktu... hard to find but just ask people... it's a wonderful kind of fufu with the twelve spices of timbuktu. Mmmmh !

On the way back to Bamako airport, take some time to stop by the small bars which are along the road in between the city and the airport. They are a dozen there, located around the dancing clubs, on the left side of the road, just outside the city. The atmosphere is unique, people are great and you'll for sure have unforgettable discusions with people there.

If you are travelling form Ivory Coast to Mali you will have to change bus in Manankoro (customs, etc). Here some tips for your stay there:

First thing: get your ticket for the rest of the journey to Mali immediately! just follow the others and ask people where the ticket seller is sitting. they usually know better then you...

Talk with the 'apprentis' (young people working for the bus company and travelling on the back or top of the bus) and they will help you through all the formalities. Additionally, you'll probably have to sleep there - somewhere. Again, ask the apprentis if you can sleep in the bus with them. As it can get cold overnight, you need a sheet or warm clothes. You are not allowed to take any luggage down from the bus, so think of it before you leave in the Ivory Coast.

You can eat stew at the 'restoroute' for 500 FCFA or so, just follow the crowd.

When heading to Dogon Country it's often a good idea to put aside a day or two and organize your guide in person before you start your hike.  Unless you have a watertight recommendation from a friend it's probably a good idea to meet your guide in the flesh before agreeing to anything.  That way you can at least get a feel for whether or not you're going to get along. Also make sure you agree to all the fine points of the trip (what's included, fees, meals, hiking distances etc) before you agree to the price.  If you get a chance it's a good idea to ask other travelers what they have been paying, ballpark, for a guide at the time you are going.  A good guide will make an enormous difference to your experience.

Take as little as you can when hiking through Dogon Country as it will significantly increase your enjoyment of the hike.  That said it can get quite cool at night (especially in the wet season) so you may want to carry something warm.  You also may want to bring a torch, something waterproof (especially in the wet season) and some kola nuts if you want to befriend the locals!

When planning your hike through Dogon Country see if you can coordinate it so that you see at least one of the village market days.  They tend to be very noisy, very colourful and a lot of fun!  They're also a good excuse to drink millet beer...

Bambara Maounde is on the route between Douenza and Tombouktou. The last time I was here in 1994, the north of Mali had only been officially open (rebel problems) for about two weeks. I had put together a caravan to take my second love to Tombouktou. The chief of the village gave us a hearty welcome, insisted that we park our camels in his courtyard while we attempted to shop for whatever was available in the godforsaken place. When we returned, the chief, whom I then realized was tucked away in a den with at least another dozen robed rebel leaders, rifles/AK's/Swords against the wall, grew angry. Suddenly, our beasts had soiled his courtyard and we were to pay. He wanted 200 thousand CFA, which I didn't have. I had 100 thousand, which were reserved for the man leading our caravan; I gave the caravan leader the money in front of the chief, and said "If you want to steal, take it from one of your own". He was furious and we were chased from the village without even being allowed to refill our water. We drank from muddy wells until we made it to tombouctou 3 days later. Stay out of Bambara Maounde - there is nothing bambara about those people.

Mopti is perhaps one of Mali's most colorful cities since it's a major trading post for "pinasses", the huge merchant dugout boats, and also a hub for weavers and pottery. I would not stay in Mopti - much better off in Sevare nearby; suggest Mac's refuge.

Sevare is THE place to stay if you are visiting Mopti/Djenne or on your way north to Gao or Tombouctou. Mac's refuge offers all the comforts that a traveler could desire, and Peace-Corps-Baba has lots of timeless wares to share.

Bandiagara is one of two main hubss for people wanting to visit dogon country. Lots of guides but the best ones come from Pere Vespirene's monastary. Mac's refuge in sevare is a great place to start since he grew up in Dogon country and can help you to avoid bad guide experiences.

Kayes is the border town on the train route between Mali and Senegal. The highlight in this region are the "Chutes du Felou". Beautifully carved rock formations with the river flowing through them. One of the undisclosed wonders of the world in my book. Do watch out for swimming in the river though. The logs on the sides are "Caimans".