Planning a Trip to Mali

When planning a trip to Djenne try to make it there for the Monday market.  The market is situated out the front of the mosque and is huge and attracts people from all over the region.  It's well worth wandering around for a few hours and it's possible to get some wonderful pictures as the locals tend to be too busy going about their business to care if a tourist takes a few photos or not!

It's possible to pay one of the locals a small amount of money to go up onto their roof and get a good view of Djenne from a greater height.  This makes for particularly good photos of the mosque and the market.

If you are travelling form Ivory Coast to Mali you will have to change bus in Manankoro (customs, etc). Here some tips for your stay there:

First thing: get your ticket for the rest of the journey to Mali immediately! just follow the others and ask people where the ticket seller is sitting. they usually know better then you...

Talk with the 'apprentis' (young people working for the bus company and travelling on the back or top of the bus) and they will help you through all the formalities. Additionally, you'll probably have to sleep there - somewhere. Again, ask the apprentis if you can sleep in the bus with them. As it can get cold overnight, you need a sheet or warm clothes. You are not allowed to take any luggage down from the bus, so think of it before you leave in the Ivory Coast.

You can eat stew at the 'restoroute' for 500 FCFA or so, just follow the crowd.

Bambara Maounde is on the route between Douenza and Tombouktou. The last time I was here in 1994, the north of Mali had only been officially open (rebel problems) for about two weeks. I had put together a caravan to take my second love to Tombouktou. The chief of the village gave us a hearty welcome, insisted that we park our camels in his courtyard while we attempted to shop for whatever was available in the godforsaken place. When we returned, the chief, whom I then realized was tucked away in a den with at least another dozen robed rebel leaders, rifles/AK's/Swords against the wall, grew angry. Suddenly, our beasts had soiled his courtyard and we were to pay. He wanted 200 thousand CFA, which I didn't have. I had 100 thousand, which were reserved for the man leading our caravan; I gave the caravan leader the money in front of the chief, and said "If you want to steal, take it from one of your own". He was furious and we were chased from the village without even being allowed to refill our water. We drank from muddy wells until we made it to tombouctou 3 days later. Stay out of Bambara Maounde - there is nothing bambara about those people.

Mopti is perhaps one of Mali's most colorful cities since it's a major trading post for "pinasses", the huge merchant dugout boats, and also a hub for weavers and pottery. I would not stay in Mopti - much better off in Sevare nearby; suggest Mac's refuge.

Sevare is THE place to stay if you are visiting Mopti/Djenne or on your way north to Gao or Tombouctou. Mac's refuge offers all the comforts that a traveler could desire, and Peace-Corps-Baba has lots of timeless wares to share.

Bandiagara is one of two main hubss for people wanting to visit dogon country. Lots of guides but the best ones come from Pere Vespirene's monastary. Mac's refuge in sevare is a great place to start since he grew up in Dogon country and can help you to avoid bad guide experiences.

Kayes is the border town on the train route between Mali and Senegal. The highlight in this region are the "Chutes du Felou". Beautifully carved rock formations with the river flowing through them. One of the undisclosed wonders of the world in my book. Do watch out for swimming in the river though. The logs on the sides are "Caimans".