Marrakech Dos and Don'ts

Marrakech, especially the Medina, the old city is very exotic. Narrow streets and very easy to get lost but also very easy to get help from the locals, even if you might not speak arabic or french. Important to have pre-hand given tips or to hire a guide in order to find what is hidden behind the beautiful big, wooden doors. Friendly people, good food and shopping and many ways to relax in a hammam or a country club a bit outside the city.

Eating in Morocco is a joy. BUT be sure and ask around before you go to an "upscale" eating establishment. There are several tourist traps. One of the tastiest and cheapest things to do, is to eat on the big square. The square features prominently in the movie Rendition. Much of the movie was shot there. Morroco became the Middle Eastern Hollywood after David Lean shot much of Lawrence of Arabia there. Well, back to eating on the square: During the day it is deserted, but at night it comes to life with dozens upon dozens of food stalls and grills and the cooking gets underway. For $5 you can eat your fill. Don't be afraid. Many tourists are concerned about sanitation. We ate there four times and every time we had cautious European tourists ask us whether it was "safe" and then they joined us to dine al fresco. Also, if you are staying overnight (Marrakech deserves at least three full days) and if your budget allows, DO NOT stay in the hotels. Find a Riad (an old family home that has been converted to a bed-and-breakfast). You will meet fellow travelers over breakfast and you can share tips. There are tons of ATMs all around the square to get cash. Remember, it is better to pull from your Cash card rather than a getting a cash advance from your credit card.

Never look interested in at something in the Souks (unless you do want to buy ) as they will pounce on you and talk you to death if you don't buy it and beware of the henna tattooists as they grab you and paint on you if you go near them, then charge you - this happened to me! Take a man with you (if you are female) as they tend to give you lots of unwanted attention if you're female(s) and on your own Always check what price a taxi fare should be before getting in as they WILL rip you off (though it's still dirt cheap so I didn't mind) If you don't mind chancing it, don't book a hotel before you go as you will get a lovely and clean hotel easliy and very cheaply near the main square if you just turn up NEVER take chances with the food, never eat salad or drink tapwater! I was ill for 5 days after eating a salad!! Definately go to Essaouira, it's beautiful Definately go through the Atlas mountains, it is beautiful (but beware the road is very bumpy and twisty-turny and no air con on the bus so made me feel sick!) and do a camel ride in the Sahara - you can book these tours in Marrakesh, ask the hotel reception and they show you where to go You need to change money when you get there as you cannot buy currency before you go (at the airport in they change it) You won't be able to escape the attention from would-be sellers everwhere so just try to ignore it (or be firm) and enjoy the beautiful surroundings Take the bus sightseeing tour when you arrive, it's good for getting your bearings

Avoid the touts and ripoff merchants of the Djma el Fna by going into shops that only locals would use. The people are friendly and interesting, and on one occassion I met the most excellent local man (who happened to work in the shop next door) by wandering into a herb and spice shop and saying hello to the guys chilling down the back drinking tea. I ended up staying for ages and chatting, met all his friends later on, then was treated to a beautiful meal with his family the following night at his house. Just at a time when I was beginning to think Morocco was full of thieves and liars, this man and his family and friends proved how wrong I was. Not your typical tourist experience.

I loved getting lost in the Soukhs. And them flute players at Place Djam-el-Fna or what the name was. Sure enough, eating sheep brain wasn't that much fun. Was my 1st visit in arab country, the hospitality was so nice, anyone would offer you tea and his house, whenever and wherever. If you hate bargaining don't go.