Used to be a predominantly university town and quite busy and interesting, but now is rather a forlorn and forgotten place. Restaurants are average for the most part but you will find the odd gem like MACS coffee shop.
I recommend heading slightly out of town to Hilton where the views are amazing and the coffee shops are better.
Essential to have your own car as public transport, like for most of SA, is non-existent, however getting there by train or long distance bus is an option (greyhound etc).
In downtown PMB be aware of pickpockets and bad driving by the local taxis.
Good bed and breakfasts can be found, try wheretostay for options.