Banteay Srey

Located 38km outside of Siem Reap, this temple is still hotly on the tourist trail. Part of the charm of visiting these remote sites is the drive out through the Cambodian countryside and the small villages along the way. If you plan to visit Banteay Srey your driver will likely be expecting more money due to the distance, so be sure to settle on the price beforehand. Our driver suggested visiting this temple and the even further a field Kbal Spean as our itinerary for the third day of our visit to Angkor. Unfortunately he left us under the impression that his payment would be the same as the day before and it wasn’t until we reached Banteay Srey that he changed the rules on us. Thankfully, we were able to reach a mutually agreeable settlement and it didn’t ruin our day, but keep this in mind when you are making arrangements to visit these distant temples.

Banteay Srey means something along the lines of “Citadel of the Women”. It was built in the late 10th Century for Rajendravarman. The temple is of Hindu origins. This gorgeous red sandstone temple is known for it’s ornate and pristine carvings. The temple is currently undergoing restorations but the majority of the temple is still easily accessible. Despite it’s remote location, Banteay Srey is very popular, even in the morning. We arrived relatively early, not sunrise early, but in the morning and even then busses crammed with tourists were arriving alongside us. Regardless we still were able to see the entire site and didn’t feel overwhelmed by the crowds like at Angkor Wat. There are plenty of food stalls and souvenir stands across the way from the temple and public bathroom facilities are a slight walk down the road.

Our trip out to these remote sites was one of the highlights of our trip!

  Website: http://www.canbypublications.com/siemreap/temples/temp-bansrey.htm

Pre Rup

Our driver suggested a trip to Pre Rup as an alternative to the crowds at Angkor Wat for sunset. Honestly, I didn’t quite get why this was the second best sunset in the park but the temple is definitely worth exploring. The architecture here is very different to that of Angkor Wat. It is a Hindu temple constructed in the late 10th century for Rajendravaraman II. This temple has undergone major restoration, but as with all the sites in Angkor, there is still more work to be done. I would recommend visiting Pre Rup early in the day or late in the afternoon as there isn’t much shelter from the sun here.

  Website: http://www.canbypublications.com/siemreap/temples/temp-prerup.htm

Kbal Spean

Kbal Spean is not a temple, but more of an archeological site. Known as the Valley of 1000 Lingas, this spot is quite unique. Your driver will drop you off at the trailhead where the local vendors and food stalls are located and then it’s a steep hike uphill through the jungle. The hike is gorgeous, and only mildly strenuous but a few of the older and less healthy travelers we saw on the way were struggling. Most anyone can do the hike, just take it at your own pace, just remember not to venture off the trail as there are still landmines in the jungle. The jungle provides some shelter from the sun, but you will need sun protection and water. The top of the hike takes you to a river. Look closely at the riverbed, it is actually hundreds of ancient carvings that make this site special. Slightly down river the is the waterfall, which is best seen during the rainy season when the water is running high and the butterflies are at their height. But we were there in the dry season and still enjoyed the waterfall and saw a couple of butterflies. Although we weren’t alone on our visit, there were very few other tourists who made the trek out here. And despite the heat, the hike through the jungle was a great departure from the beaten path.

If you plan to visit Banteay Srey or Kbal Spean your driver will likely be expecting more money due to the distance, so be sure to settle on the price beforehand. Our driver suggested visiting this temple and the even further a field Kbal Spean as our itinerary for the third day of our visit to Angkor. Unfortunately he left us under the impression that his payment would be the same as the day before and it wasn’t until we reached Banteay Srey that he changed the rules on us. Thankfully, we were able to reach a mutually agreeable settlement and it didn’t ruin our day, but keep this in mind when you are making arrangements to visit these distant temples. Our trip out to these remote sites was one of the highlights of our trip!

Directions: Located 49km outside of Siem Reap, this site is far removed from the tourist track. Part of the charm of visiting these remote sites is the drive out through the Cambodian countryside and the small villages along the way. Website: http://www.canbypublications.com/siemreap/temples/temp-kbalspean.htm

Banteay Samre        

On the way back to Siem Reap from Kbal Spean we made one last temple stop at Banteay Samre, a Hindu temple located about 5 km east of East Mebon. This temple was erected in the mid 12th Century for Suryavarman II. Banteay Samre isn’t on the Grand Circuit so it is less frequented by tourists than many of the other temples in the area. The drive to Banteay Samre takes you through a few small villages, so if you don’t have the time to make it out to Kbal Spean or Banteay Srey at least attempt to visit Banteay Samre for an intimate view of the Cambodian countryside and peoples outside of the city.

  Website: http://www.canbypublications.com/siemreap/temples/temp-bansam.htm

Respecting Angkor Although guests are allowed the unique opportunity to climb and explore the magnificent and often crumbling structures, care should be taken. It implore any visitor to these unique temples to exercise care and caution during their time in Angkor, it is the only way to ensure that this amazing edifice will remain for future generations to enjoy. Many of the temples are currently under reconstruction and some of the lesser temples still need to undergo major preservation. And removing any objects from any of the Angkor temples is strictly forbidden. But also, as a visitor to these sacred sites please be respectful, many of these temples are still in use. Much of the ugly behavior we experienced from other tourists were shouting and shoving – especially on the steep and narrow steps to the top of Angkor Wat, which is not only rude but dangerous.

Children of Angkor

Fondest Memory: There are communities of people who actually live on the grounds of the temples of Angkor. They are the descendants of the peoples who built these majestic temples. The children of these people can be found hanging out in the temples or helping their parents at the stands selling their wares inside the complex. On our second day we met several children, most of them were trying to sell us a scarf or trying to get us to have breakfast at their parent’s stand. But we had a lot of fun with these kids. In the dark, while we were waiting for sunrise over Srah Srang, two little girls took my hand and guided me to the bathroom and back. They were such sweet girls that I was compelled to have breakfast with them and Marc had breakfast at another nearby stand with the kids he had befriended.

  Since many of the families make their money selling food or goods to the tourists visiting Angkor, these children will try and sell to you. They can be very persistent. Just simply tell them you are not interested. You may have to repeat this several times, but just don’t make any empty promises to shut them up. They will remember. But have fun and enjoy the beautiful children of Angkor during your visit.

Bathrooms at Angkor Wat There are several options for public bathrooms at Angkor Wat. If you are standing with your back to Angkor Wat there are vendors and food stalls are located to the right inside the complex. There is also an active monastery near the stalls with public bathrooms, but be sure you have money with you, as the children of the monastery will lead you to the bathrooms and then request payment, but this money goes to the monastery. There is also a public bathroom on the opposite side of the complex directly across from the monastery and vendors. This stall was free of charge and lacked tourists.

Monks Nuns Although Angkor Wat and the surrounding temples are ancient, they are still active religious sites. Any temple with an existing Buddha will be adorned by the faithful. There are active monasteries throughout and you will certainly see monks and nuns attending to these sites. Additionally, monks from outside Angkor make a regular pilgrimage to these holy sites so it is not unusual to encounter theme exploring the temples along side the other tourists. The monks and nuns in residence will allow you to participate in a blessing, for a donation, which is an unique experience. When encountering a monk or nun, please ask for permission before taking a picture, as some do not wish to be photographed. Many of the visiting monks, clad in their saffron robes, are here as part of a solemn religious pilgrimage, but as we learned, all Buddhist men must serve as a monk at least once in their life so some of the monks we encountered acted more like tourists than religious pilgrims and were just as excited to take pictures of and with other tourists as we were.

Monkeys!!!! On the first day of our visit to the temples of Angkor we encountered a clan of monkeys on the road between Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom. Our tuk tuk driver pulled over to the side of the road to allow us to check them out. The monkeys were obviously used to people. They were friendly and permitted us to get rather close. They were eating bananas and there were babies hanging off their mothers and playing with each other. It was my first encounter with wild monkeys so it was truly a special treat! Keep your eye out for the monkeys during your visit to Angkor.

Great Khmer Food

Restaurant Name: Khmer Kitchen

After settling into our room we decided to explore the city of Siem Reap and grab some dinner. After walking up and down Bar Street and the Alley, checking out menus, we finally settled on Khmer Kitchen. The food was fantastic and the service warm and friendly. The portions were plentiful and we were able to dine al fresco on the alley and people watch. We liked this place so much we went back another night. Highly recommended Khmer food with great service, atmosphere and cheap prices.

Prices: less than US$10

Phone: 964154 Address: The Alley (between Bar Street Psar Chaa)