Our tuk tuk driver from the bus station was so sweet and his English was so good so we were compelled to hire him for the following day to take us around Angkor. We settled on a price of $15 US for the entire day and arranged to have him pick us up at our hotel the following morning at 4:30 am so we could experience sunrise over Angkor Wat. We later realized we fell victim to the old “bait and switch” as he changed himself out for his cousin who he swore spoke English as well as his own (this wasn’t the case). But even though his cousin couldn’t speak much English at all he arrived promptly at our hotel the following morning and was a great driver.

If you are planning to do the small tour or grand tour circuit of Angkor (both of which include the closest temples) it is reasonable to hire a tuk tuk and driver for $15 US for the entire day. In addition to an all day hire it is not unusual to have your driver pick you up for sunrise, drop you back off at your hotel to escape the midday heat and then pick you up again for sunset all for the same price. The heat gets intense in the afternoon and it’s great to escape the noontime sun and enjoy the mysteries of Angkor in minimal heat.

Tips for hiring a driver all day: Settle on your price beforehand but do not pay your driver until the end of the day.

Negotiate your prices. Drivers will attempt to get more money out of you if they can. When in doubt walk away. There is always another tuk tuk driver waiting to be your guide. Sometimes simply walking away is the best negotiating technique.

Expect to pay $15 US for a full day of the small tour or grand tour circuits. If you want to visit Banteay Srey (37 km from Siem Reap) or Kbal Spean (49 km from Siem Reap) expect to pay between $18 to $30 US for the trip because of the distance and due to the fact that the roads out to Kbal Spean are currently extremely rough and hard on the tuk tuks.

Website: http://www.canbypublications.com/siemreap/srtemples.htm

Off the Tourist Track

Restaurant Name: Lucky Restaurant

We stumbled upon Lucky Restaurant, which you won’t find in any guidebook or on any tourist map, by accident. We only wish we had discovered this little gem sooner. Located on the outskirts of the tourist area, slightly southwest of Psar Chaa, this local hole in the wall doesn’t look like anything special, but looks can be deceiving. The food here was traditional and surprisingly delicious. We were the only tourists in the place and were able to dine outdoors and enjoy the ambience of the city while we dined. The service was great and the prices couldn’t be beat. They’re also open late – a definite plus! Don’t pass by this hidden gem if you’re looking for great Khmer food at rock-bottom prices off the normal tourist track.

Favorite Dish: Marc’s steamed fish was one of our best meals of the trip. And my chicken Amok (signature Cambodian dish) was great too.

Prices: less than US$10

Phone: 012 995 163

Address: N° 011, Street Sivatha Directions: Attached to the Mini Guesthouse

Bus from Phnom Penh The cheapest way to get from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap is by bus. There are a variety of busses to choose from and they run several times a day. The rates start at $5 US for the local bus. This option is the cheapest, and the best way if you want to travel with the locals. We opted to travel on this bus and there were very few other tourists among us, but we felt completely safe the entire ride. This bus makes two pit stops along the way and as there is no bathroom on this bus, the pit stops are very important as it is the only time you are able to relieve yourself on the ride. At the pit stops you will also be able to obtain food and drink. We even saw fried scorpion and tarantula for sale at the pit stops! The other bus options rise in price up to $10 US (keep in mind these prices are one way). The $10 bus is the most luxurious bus and the one most often booked by tourists featuring bathrooms, air conditioning, and even movies on some busses. Check with a travel agent to arrange tickets and times. Even on the $5 we had reserved seating. They estimate the trip from Phnom Penh to take 5.5 to 6 hours but in reality our trip only took 5 hours including two stops. It’s cheaper and faster than taking a boat up the river, by far, and a great way to see the Cambodian countryside.