If you want to stay a bit in the wild, I really recommend Sondzela backpackers in Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary. Go to Ngwenya (spelling?) and watch the glas factory, they also have souvenirs and chocolat =) To see a traditional Swazi living go to Mantenga and the Swazi Cultural Village. Twice a day you can see the traditional Swazi dances and perhaps even dance yourself =) For good food I really recommend "Finesse" in Mbabane, any steak with the jacket potato is really nice.

If you don't know where to stay, go to Legends Backpackers in Ezulwini Valley, close enough to Manzini and Mbabane to actually take the combi. The staff is great, the kitchen is fully equipped, it's clean and cheap!

The Lidwalla backpacker hostel is fantastic. Beautifully situated against a mountainside with spectacular views of the valley and a variety of sleeping accomodations to fit all budgets. The staff is exceptionally friendly and you are a stone's throw from most local attractions.

We always went to Swaziland driving from Maputo, via Namaacha. Mbabane was a nice small town. Well kept, clean, a fresh air from what could then be called as one of the best spots in Africa. No holes on the road, sugar cane and other crops cultivated, lots of forest on the hills, really a very nice country. Polite and friendly people, no crime, no messing around. People wearing traditional outfits on their daily lives, which was rather surprising considering they weren't that many. And, at Mbabane, I had what was very likely the best steak in my life!

We stayed at Mountain Inn. A quite place, nice rooms, great swimming-pool and a awesome view from the bedroom at fair prices.