The palace of Emperor Dioclecian is at the centre of Split ("Split" is a deformationof "palacium", the Palace). Once the Roman Empire collapsed, the palace was reconverted as living quarters, and still nowadays people are living in it. Imagine what it would be if people where living in Paris' Louvre? As a result a visit of sun-bathed historical Split is to walk in a place where historical buildings are doubling as restaurants, cafes, post offices or else.

It is a net of warrens + trenches in the woods around Bitche barracks. I went to spend a night there in early 1996. Part of training, an idea of the platoon commander  - curse him: a night outside, in the cold, issue of combat rations and the rest. The rest = cleaning a space to put your sleeping bag, collecting wood for camp fire, distributing sentry duty (I had the last one, 04:00->05:00). It could have been worse: 2nd platoon was in the vicinity, but didn't night-raid our supply of coffee, and didn't scalp any sentry. Advice: sleep with your weapon in the sleeping bag. The NCOs steal them during your sleep then punish you at the morning.

The Military Intelligence Directorate is the authority delivering permits to enter the restricted zone running along the Israeli border in South Lebanon. The area is under control of the Hezbollah, at war against Israel. While it is possible to go to visit the numerous sites in this zone, it requires a clearance from the Military Intelligence, whose office is in Saida. The process is reasonably straightforward but, like any administrative obligation, is time consuming. Be carefull to have all the necessary documents if you don't want to have to go back to Beirut empty handed then coming again the next day. A compulsory obligation to fulfill if one wants to step in South Lebanon's war fields.

500 metres away from Keren's central crossroad. A pension with 15 or 16 large rooms. Clean but with spartan comfort. Don't be surprised by the "shower", a barrel of water dispensing a trickle of water; it's a regular occurence in Eritrea. It is a budget place, conveniently situated. An inconvenience is the farmyard just on the left. At 04:30 or so the poultry starts a protest of some kind, quickly joined by a donkey and possibly a camel. It replaces any alarm clock, you'll be sure to be awake on time to take the bus to Asmara.

It is a dead chicken factory, in Portadown's dull industrial estate. I went here twice, in the very first days of january 2002, on nightshifts. The factory relies heavily on agency staff. we work wrapped in food safety-approved suits, in the chill, paid minimum wages, which is understandable: the task doesn't require neither skills nor talent. When the 12 hours henocide ends, one leaves the place numb and smelling dead chicken. So the trip back -> Belfast in the minibus is ... particular. While not being an exhilarating experience, a shift at Moy Park remains an initiating ritual of an immigrant agency worker.

Hotel run by a family at the heart of Tyre (Sour) christian quarter, beside the lighthouse. To find it you must go through the narrow streets of this tiny district, whose white walls and location by the sea remind of a village on greek islands. Al-Fanar's rooms are spotless and there is a large restaurant room. People are very helpfull and kindly provide all information needed if one wants to go further inland. One of the bests in terms price/quality. French + English spoken. 07 741 111; www.alfanarresort.com

The Hospices de Beaune is a 15th century hospital, now a museum. If the buildings can look very common from the ouside, once inside you can see the roofs are superbly decorated, revealing an unsuspected wealth. It's because burgundy was in the 15th century in the grip of the ecorcheurs. They were demobilised soldiers from the 100 years war, turned pillards. There was nothing sacred for them, not even an hospital. The best way to avoid the hospital being ransacked by those bandits , whose well earned reputation of barbarity was terrorising the whole province, was to carefully hide any mark of wealth. It explains why, from outside, nobody can notice any of the hospices riches.

The DERG monument is a column with a red star at its summit, guarded by the statues of three soldiers. It stands in front of the central post station, behind a gate. While being a major landmark it wasn't reported on Lonely Planet or Le guide du routard, anyway not in 2006. This monument was a present from Kim Il-Sung's North Korea for the 10 years of colonel Mengistu's DERG regime, in 1984. It is an impressive Totalitarist monument, celebrating one of the most ruthless military regimes in Africa. Supposedly no photos allowed. But I took the risk (five times)...

It is Cahors' city centre. Beside are the tourism information office, prefecture of the Lot, and at the middle a statue of Gambetta. The main avenue bordering the central square is lined with cafes, restaurants and else, bakeries, from where one can sit and enjoy the quiet pace of life when watching at the rocky hills surrounding the presqu'ile on which sits Cahors.

A guest house in Bcharre, the Maronite mountain village. in the upper section of Bcharre unique S road, so not obvious to find if you're not used to Maronite mountain villages.(I had a lift by camouflaged-clad gendarmes). The accomodation is decent, but showers have to be taken in the evening (no hot water at evenings). While OK, it's a bit dull. Anyway a convenient address to Bcharre. Good point = if you come <- Tripoli, Haddad Pension's owner will phone on your behalf to book you.

"castle"... "site"...  the Fort des Tetes is a boot camp where 159e RIA sends soldiers in mountain combat training. A Vauban fortress above Briancon with all 17th century comfort. No water. No heating. Open windows covered with plastic sheets and water freezing in the bottles, cooking on a small gaz stove. I spent one week there, part of a three weeks training, in december 1997. I remember. It was youth.      - How can I even rate it?

Very convenient if you go to the Mourne mountains. It is by the sea, at the Mourne's doorstep. Easy to find and connected to Northern Ireland's hostels net. Closes from 11:00->17:00 but opens 7 days/week. Dort rooms, large spotless kitchen (self catering). 30 downs road, Newcastle BT 330 AG 02843722133 - newcastle@hini.org.uk

Hotel Savoya sits in a large Italian ear building, quite at the middle of Agordat, overlooking the main street. Pretty convenient, easy to find. On the ground floor people play a billiard game, without queues, long disappeared. They launch the balls following well established rules. The building can appear quite derelict, but Barka province is a remote one, and given this Savoya Hotel remains correct. The rooms are OK, despite a spartan comfort. The shower is a dark, damp closet with a large drum of water, from where you get a trickle of water. A regular occurence in Eritrea. It is nonetheless welcome: I couldn't do without 3 showers a day there. Heat is ferocious in Agordat.

The Tower of Silence is a the top of a small hill overlooking Aden's old town, the Crater, just before the steep slopes leading to the old volcano to start. It takes 45 mn from hotel Rimbaud to reach the tower, going amongst the burrows-like shacks of breeze blocks climbing towards the hills were are living the African refugees, then by a no-man's-land which is the territory of a band of skeleton stray dogs. The Tower is a pillar standing at the centre of two walled rings, used as funeral ground for Indian immigrants adepts of the Zoroastrian cult. Zoroastrians didn't believe in burying nor in incineration. To sent their dead to the other world, they were lying the corpses inside the walled rings, then were relying on vultures' hunger to dispose of them. An original + unusual place to visit, from where you have a splendid view on Aden's Crater.

In city centre, close to a roundabout which doubles as a coach station + collective station. Easy to find, at walking distance from Tripoli's awesome Crusader fortress. Very affordable + cheap. The owners can advice you about accomodations if you want to head to Bcharre, the mountain village in the Chouf mountain. Anecdote: the coach/taxi station at the roundabout nearby was the place of a bomb attack targeting Lebanese army soldiers on leave in 2008. Probably related to the then recent intersectarian clashes in Tripoli.

A very hot summer in the 80s, the plaster fell off the walls inside Moutier's church, revealing paintings from medieval times everyone forget. Since, a careful restauration took place and now the paintings can be seen in their integrality. Apart its historical value, Moutier's church cool premises is a welcome stop during burgundy scorching summer. It was, long time ago, a shelter for pilgrims. Now the bad note: there is outside the church a statue (maybe doubling as fountain, I can't remember), inspired by a legend of a priest who was one night confronted by the devil. This statue is plain ugly. It stands like at the middle of this nice village.

Close to city centre without any inconvenience like noise or else: very quiet place. The building looks like a white cube in which are clean, large rooms overlooking a well maintained garden. Africa Pension is facing the Italian consulate, and is very easy to find. 

This medieval fortress was built by the crusaders to submit the muslims to their rule. It is an awesome complex on a hill from which they were controlling the harbour. At walking distance from city center, one can explore the vast murals, tunnels and guardposts once the bastion of the french invaders.

Cahors' main distinctive feature is the fortified bridge, the pride of the town. Cahors is set in a turn of Lot river, with rocky hills all around: in medieval times, it was so of interest to have a fortified bridge to protect the town. The legend says the architect, desperate about delays and accumulating problems, enlisted the help of the devil to build it. The town in itself is very relaxing, with a quiet pace of life.

Hotel Rimbaud is in the Crater, Aden's historical city. It is a relaxing, nice building. It is in the former facilities of a British trading company where worked Arthur Rimbaud, the 19th century scandalous french poet from Revin (Ardennes). Rimbaud came in Aden after having deserted the Dutch colonial army on his way to Indonesia. In Aden he ran in troubles with the indian dockers he was treating harshly, was beaten, then left and became a gunrunner in Abissinya, on the other side of the Red Sea. On personal matters, my father is a native from Revin himself. All his life he has been fascinated by Rimbaud. in booking in this hotel I paid tribute to my father's fascination, and it is priceless.

I went there in spring 2006 - for the Edinburgh marathon. Great time! And a very different way to visit the town. In the days before the race, I remember having spent ages on Prince's avenue. I am a boy from a small town, and everything looked so big and so impressive to me!
I really liked my time there.

It is a military cemetary, in pristine condition, where are buried italian soldiers and eritrean askaris (colonial troops), dead during the battle for Keren in 1941. Keren is a strategic point. A natural fortress blocking the access to Asmara, Eritrea's capital. If Keren falls, Asmara, and so the entire country, are at the mercy of the agressor. It explains why the town was so fought for. The Italian colonial army was beaten there and its soldiers, Italians as well as Eritrean, are buried side by side under the flags of the two countries. Side by side, but not together. The Askaris are buried on the left side, the Italians on the right side. And while the Italian soldiers have their name, rank and unit disclosed on their grave, there is, on the grave of the askaris, just the mention "soldato ignoto" or "unknown soldier". They were buried without anyone to bother to even collect their names. Just canon fodders thrown in a hole once crushed by the British artillery. It is like a segregation beyond death...

The main feature in Travnik, it is the fortress. A medieval tower surrounded by a wall, dominating the town. I went in february 2006, in the winter, and it was splendid. The mountains, the town, were under the snow, and Travnik's fortress was even more awe-inspiring. But there is many other things to see in Travnik: the so nicely decorated mosque at the middle of the town, the burial places of the ottoman governors, and so on.